Monday, May 26, 2014

The New Yorker


Sunday, May 25, 2014

Singing Amy Winehouse in Tehran

The New Yorker May 25, 2014

For decades, both before and after his 1979 revolution, Ayatollah Khomeini railed against “Westoxication”—the poisoning of Iran’s Islamic society by Western culture. The new theocracy banned everything from music and dancing to modern art. Tehran’s National Museum of Contemporary Art crated away Picassos, Pollocks, Warhols, and Mirós worth billions. Even chess, a game with local roots, was banned. In the early nineteen-eighties, I watched a customs official tear up an entire deck of playing cards, one at a time.
The Islamic Republic has been consumed ever since with its own clash of cultures. Themes of religion and revolution in art, theatre, cinema, and literature have increasingly struggled to retain an audience in a society that has grown demographically younger and more integrated into a globalizing world. The government has been forced, erratically, into easing restrictions. After Khomeini died, in 1989, Tehran hosted concerts again. In the late nineties, shortly after a Farsi translation of “Les Misérables” finished a six-month run, I saw a Molière farce.
Movies and plays still require government approval of their scripts to gain access to performance halls or equipment. Male and female film actors must never touch on screen. The culture clash was evident at the Cannes Film Festival this month. Leila Hatami, the star of “A Separation,” which won the 2012 Academy Award for Best Foreign Film, was invited to be a juror. Iran’s deputy culture minister publicly rebuked her for un-Islamic behavior there, apparently because of her dress (a frumpy gray number that showed a bit of ankle) and what Variety called “a simple peck on the cheek” of Gilles Jacob, the retiring Cannes president. Also this month, six young Iranians were detained after they posted to YouTube a video of themselves dancing to Pharrell Williams’s “Happy.” They were released after apologizing on state television. The video’s director was reportedly imprisoned, and the six may still face formal charges—despite a tweet from President Hassan Rouhani’s quasi-official Twitter account vowing, “#Happiness is our people’s right. We shouldn’t be too hard on behaviors caused by joy.” (The President does not control Iran’s judiciary.)
Female singers have faced the toughest taboos. “Women’s voices should not be heard by men other than members of their own families,” Khomeini decreed. But when I was in Tehran this spring to work on a Profile of the nuclear negotiator Javad Zarif for The New Yorkera woman finally sang in Iran—and Western pop songs, no less. To cheers and whistles in Tehran’s elegant opera house, Ghazal Shakeri belted out “Back to Black,” a provocative Amy Winehouse song. The lyrics had to be modified, but only a bit. Instead of “kept his dick with,” Shakeri sang “kept his lips with.”
The performance was one of a dozen Western numbers incorporated into “The Last Days of Esfand,” an Iranian musical about a female psychiatrist treating a troubled young criminal. The two leads, Shakeri and a man named Ashkan Khatibi, sang several duets, including Abba’s rousing “The Winner Takes It All,” a poignant version of “Autumn Leaves,” and a spirited “Those Were the Days, My Friend,” which includes lines about raising “a glass or two” and singing and dancing forever. They were accompanied by three female backup singers.
The staging, in Khomeini’s Islamic Republic, was as striking as the songs. During musical numbers, a rear screen displayed video montages. As the male lead crooned “Dance with Me,” the screen flashed images of the Beatles, Elvis (thin Elvis), Ray Charles, Frank Sinatra, Simon and Garfunkel, the Bee Gees, and Neil Diamond. The spoken banter included references to “Hotel California” and “Like a Rolling Stone.” The ringtone on the psychiatrist’s prop phone was the first few notes of “Smile.”
Shakeri is a former child star who abandoned acting for interior design. (Artistic fame can be a burden in Iran.) In 2011, she returned to film, in the movie “Facing Mirrors,” in which she played a traditional wife forced to drive a cab to help pay off the embezzling debts that sent her husband to prison. The plot centered on her helping a passenger, a pre-op female-to-male transsexual fleeing an arranged marriage. In 2012, the film won awards from the Paris Gay and Lesbian Film Festival, the San Francisco L.G.B.T. Film Festival, and the Seattle Transgender Film Festival, among others. Homosexuality is a crime in Iran, but the Ministry of Culture and Islamic Guidance approved the “Facing Mirrors” script, Shakeri told me, because an Iranian had once appealed to Ayatollah Khomeini for permission to undergo gender-reassignment surgery. “The man said his body was male, but his soul was female,” Shakeri recalled. “Khomeini ruled that his soul was more important than his body.” The decision, in which Khomeini granted approval, is well known across the country.
For Shakeri, singing in public, especially Western pop, was riskier than starring in a film with transgender themes. “A year ago, you couldn’t do this show,” she told me backstage. “I couldn’t sing.”
Khatibi, the male lead, said it took eighteen months to get script clearance—and he didn’t submit the songs. That night, he wore tight jeans and a long ponytail, but Shakeri was dressed in the required modest Islamic costume, including a dark-red scarf and an oversized coat that bulked up her small frame. Officials who attended one performance instructed her not to sing quite so loud in the next one, she told me. Nevertheless, the show played a three-week run to packed audiences.
The arts are no longer mere propaganda; culture is less toxic. In cinema, satirists are even taking digs at religious tradition. During my last trip to Iran, in March, a comedy called “The Sensitive Layer” was in theatres. It plays off gender segregation and the local practice of burying people on top of one another, with a thick layer of earth in between. A husband becomes obsessed with the possible relationship in heaven between his deceased wife and the man buried above her. Reza Saeedipour, the managing director of the opera house, urged me to see it. “I like to go see it and laugh,” he said. “I like to laugh a lot.”
Iran’s art world has opened up, too. Some of the Picassos, Pollocks, Warhols, and Mirós—including pieces acquired by Iran’s last Empress, during the oil boom of the nineteen-seventies—have gone back on display. I visited an exhibit, arranged along the circular floors of the Museum of Contemporary Art, of the most noted Iranian artists from the Shah’s era. The government seems less ashamed—or less fearful—of the country’s dynastic past.
The biggest change, however, is in Tehran’s street art. For decades, buildings and billboards were plastered with anti-American graffiti and giant portraits of martyrs from the bloody war with Iraq in the nineteen-eighties, usually adorned with a tulip, the symbol of martyrdom. Today, the city is being transformed by whimsical murals in bold colors, painted on the sides of otherwise dreary high-rises. More than a hundred are the work of Mehdi Ghadyanloo and his team of young painters in the Blue Sky Painters CompanyThe murals have surreal themes: a flying human with giant butterfly wings, a line of people walking upside down across a ceiling, cars driving in the air above futuristic buildings, an apartment block that seems to fold like an accordion, a nature-trail illusion through the middle of a high-rise, and a train chugging through the sky. One apartment building was painted to resemble a six-story aquarium with giant fish.
Like scripts, Ghadyanloo’s urbanscapes require government approval. More than a hundred of his designs have been rejected. “They believe some of my murals make the city more visually polluted,” he said. “Some of my work is very crowded, with a lot of people.” Tehran teems with some eight million inhabitants, but the approved works are often striking for their visual loneliness—a single child holding balloons as he drifts in the sky, or a lone young man cycling down the side of building. A new work, “Silence,” seems like an aerial view of a small amphitheatre; a man sits alone on the top row, a second man walks away.
Ghadyanloo’s father was a farmer and his mother was a carpet weaver. He grew up in a world of colors, and describes himself as an aspiring Banksy. “I see surreal visions when I sleep,” he told me. “I translate my dreams onto walls.”
Could Iran finally be awakening from its revolutionary reverie?

Thursday, May 22, 2014

Javad Zarif on Iran's Nuclear Negotiations

The New Yorker May 22, 2014
I first met Mohammad Javad Zarif, the Iranian foreign minister, in the nineteen-eighties, when he was a junior member of the Iranian delegation at the United Nations. This week’s issue of The New Yorker includes a Profile based on twenty-five years of conversations with him, including four in Tehran and New York since last September. Zarif is now the pivotal broker in nuclear talks between his government and six world powers—Britain, China, France, Germany, Russia, and the United States. After eight months of diplomacy, the serious drafting of terms for a long-term deal to insure that Iran does not acquire a nuclear weapon began last week, in Vienna. The deadline for reaching an agreement is July 20th.
A nuclear deal would almost certainly affect Iran’s political future. “If we can ascertain and show to our people that the West is ready to deal with Iran on the basis of mutual respect and mutual interests and equal footing, then it will have an impact on almost every aspect of Iran’s foreign policy behavior—and some aspects of Iran’s domestic policy,” Zarif said.
Iran and the six powers must address points of contention on virtually every aspect of a nuclear deal, from the future of suspect facilities to accounting for past programs, but Zarif has been noticeably upbeat about prospects for a breakthrough. I asked him how difficult it would be to reach an agreement. The red lines—particularly between Washington and Tehran—often seem insurmountable.
“It’s going to be both hard and easy,” he said. “Easy, because ostensibly we have a convergence of views on the objectives. We don’t want nuclear weapons, and they say the objective is to insure Iran does not have nuclear weapons. So, if that is the objective, in my view it’s already achieved. We just have to find mechanisms for agreeing on the process.”
But the details “may be cumbersome,” Zarif added. “More so because those who do not want to see an agreement, those who seek their interests in greater mistrust and conflict, are hard at work. And they do their best to prevent.” He presumably meant opponents in the United States and Israel, as well as in Iran. But he predicted that they were regrouping to prepare for what comes next if a deal is struck.
“Now they have had time to collect themselves and to come up with probably new tactics,” he said. “I still believe that they’ll lose. But they are going to make life a bit tougher for those who want to do something positive.”
* * *
For Iran, the singular theme in negotiations with the six major powers is respect. “Respect for Iran’s rights,” as Zarif put it, is a euphemism for the right to enrich uranium, a process that can be used both for peaceful nuclear energy and for weapons. Tehran believes that enrichment is necessary for building alternative energy sources. Within a generation, because of soaring domestic oil consumption, Iran could run out of oil for export—the country’s main source of revenue. Iran also wants to restore Persia’s historic standing in the annals of science, and it sees nuclear energy as crucial to modern development. It feels the West wants to block any such advancement.
“Nuclear talks are not about nuclear capability.” Zarif told me. “They are about Iranian integrity and dignity.” He went on, “If the other side understands the importance of dignity and integrity to the Iranian people, and grasps the fact that various Iranians—who may never have seen [facilities at] Natanz or Arak or Fordo—believe that dignity is not up for sale, that their technology and development is not up for sale … then they will be able to reach an understanding with us.”
* * *
Iran’s nuclear debate is technically the domain of the Supreme National Security Council, which advises Supreme Leader Ayatollah Khamenei. He will have the last word. But there is a smaller committee—including Iran’s new President, Hassan Rouhani—that has worked out specific terms for the nuclear talks.
“It’s a debate,” Zarif said of discussions within the Iranian government. “And debate is healthy, heated or otherwise. It’s a very, very serious subject and it has important implications, and that is why it is a difficult decision. And a lot of mistrust is there, of the West. So every step is taken, I hope, with a lot of prudence, and consideration.”
When I was in Tehran in March, I asked Zarif how much a nuclear deal depended on him. “I don’t know,” he said. An aide, sitting nearby, chimed in quickly, “Ninety per cent! The outcome depends ninety per cent on him.”
“I hope that’s not true,” Zarif said.
* * *
President Rouhani is a striking change from his predecessor, Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, even in Iran’s controlled political environment—particularly when it comes to foreign policy.
“We have a different perspective of the world,” Zarif said of the stance that he and Rouhani have taken. “We don’t necessarily see the world in terms of black and white. We believe there is the possibility for engagement and interaction. We believe we do not necessarily need to agree with somebody to be able to talk to them or to engage with them or to reach an understanding.”
But, he went on, “at the end of the day, we are actually much more self-confident. So we believe we can negotiate and achieve our goals, because we have the ability to make our point logically and to convince our negotiating partners that they can have a deal with us.”
Even so, there is nothing to prevent the Islamic Republic from returning to hard-line positions. “The electorate can send us back home,” he said. “I retired at the early age of forty-seven”—when Ahmadinejad squeezed him out of the Foreign Service—“so I can retire again. And I think people have every right to make that choice.”
Zarif ascribed Ahmadinejad’s election as President, in 2005, to the West’s failure to respond to diplomatic outreach during the reform period under his predecessor, Mohammad Khatami. “Iran adopted an open, engaging policy,” Zarif said. But the West’s reaction was “based on illusions—and, unfortunately, a bunch of people sitting in the White House who had extremely limited knowledge and grasp of world realities. The reaction to this openness was arrogant, wishful, and delusional. And the Iranian people believed that their dignity had been compromised, that the openness of our administration had been confronted with hostility and excessive demands. So they elected someone diametrically opposed to that approach.”
A sense of victimization permeates Iranian thinking. “Every statement that comes out of Washington that is not respectful and is trying to intimidate the Iranian people—is trying to put pressure on the Iranian people—strikes that very, very sensitive chord in the Iranian psyche, and they immediately react,” Zarif said.
I mentioned that the anti-American rhetoric—notably, things I’d heard while attending a Friday-prayers service—was more provocative than anything said by Americans. From the women’s section, I heard shouts of “Death to America” three times. I asked Zarif why Iranians are not sensitive to the things that they want Americans to be sensitive about.
“We’re talking about something done by the public versus something by the President of the United States,” Zarif said, a reference to statements, made by both Obama and George W. Bush, that military strikes against Iran remain an option. “The people of Iran respond to intimidation and pressure negatively; almost they are allergic to it… . It produces resentment among the Iranian people, and the chanting that you see in the Friday prayers.”
He went on, “I assure you, these people are the same people who went out of their way after 9/11 presenting their condolences to the Americans, even walking in the streets with candles, commemorating and expressing their sympathy and unity of purpose, actually, with the Americans. And, in two consecutive weeks, there was no slogan [at Friday Prayers]. But what changed it? Statements by Don Rumsfeld and Condi Rice humiliating the Iranian people.”
America should have learned better over the past thirty-five years, Zarif said. Iranians “respond very positively to respect. Try it. It won’t kill you.”
Zarif told me, “There are two futures. One future will be greater conflict, greater tension, greater mistrust—basically, more of the same as we had in the past. But more of the same may not be easily manageable. And it may even get worse, and more dangerous. So that’s one option, which I hope will not be before us.”
I asked him if that outcome included another Middle East war. The United States and Israel have both warned that if diplomacy fails the military option remains on the table.
“I’m not that worried about war,” Zarif said. “Insecurity is the word I would use—insecurity and tension and conflict. I thought civilized people had abandoned wars.” But then he added, “Sometimes people don’t make rational decisions.”
The second, more hopeful future, he said, is one in which, despite differences, the world powers “can work together on serious issues of mutual concern and try to address them. And these issues include problems of instability, extremism, and terrorism in the Middle East and Afghanistan, and a whole range of other possibilities, including Iran being a reliable source of energy for Europe.”
* * *
For decades, Iran was one of two pillars of American foreign policy in the Middle East. Israel was the other. I asked Zarif if the United States and Iran had any common interests thirty-five years after their diplomatic split.
“Did I say there were common interests?” Zarif, who is known for his wry humor, replied. “Iran has a national-security interest in nonproliferation, so, if the United States is interested in nonproliferation, that is one issue. Iran has a national-security interest in freedom of navigation in the Persian Gulf. We have a national-security interest in stability in this region. We have a national-security interest in fighting terrorism in Afghanistan, instability in Afghanistan.” He continued, “We have a national-security interest in stability and in maintaining stable governments in the region. We have a national-security interest in in putting an end to the bloodshed in Syria.” In sum, he said, “If I take what the United States says at face value, there should be convergence.”

Monday, January 20, 2014

Iran Still Haunted By Chemical Weapons Attacks

TIME   January 20, 2014
Hassan Hassani Sa’di has been dying from chemical weapons for almost 30 years. The Iranian still remembers the moment he realized Iraqi warplanes were dropping more than regular bombs. “I knew,” he says, “because of the smell of garlic.” It was the pungent and telltale aroma of mustard gas.
Death from mustard gas is gruesome; so is survival. It hideously disfigures skin, sears lungs and mucus membranes, and often blinds. Unlike nerve gas, there’s no antidote. Sa’di, then an 18-year-old fighting in the Middle East’s grisliest modern war — the 8-year conflict between Iran and Iraq — survived the Iraqi attack on the strategic Fao Peninsula in 1985. Within hours, his body was badly blistered, and he had gone blind. “The last thing I remember is vomiting green,” he says, during an interview at the Tehran Peace Museum, a facility dedicated to education and the documentation of weapons of mass destruction.
Iran is today the world’s largest laboratory for the study of the effects of chemical weapons, in part because of the sheer numbers of Iranian victims, but also because of a little-studied phenomenon called low-dose exposure. In 1991, a declassified CIA report estimated that Iran suffered more than 50,000 casualties from Iraq’s repeated use of nerve agents and toxic gases in the 1980s. Mustard gas — in dusty, liquid and vapor forms — was used the most during the war. It was packed into bombs and artillery shells, then fired at frontlines and beyond, including at hospitals.
Years after the war, however, Iranian doctors noticed that respiratory diseases with unusual side-symptoms — corneal disintegration, rotting teeth and dementia, a combination synonymous with mustard gas — had started killing off veterans who had not always been on the frontlines. Civilians were also dying.
So in 2000, the government launched a media campaign urging people who had been in certain areas during the war to report for check-ups. The ads didn’t specify why.
The troubling pattern was soon diagnosed as secondary contamination to mustard gas. “We may only have seen the tip of the iceberg. We may not yet have seen the majority of victims,” Dr. Farhad Hashemnezhad told me in 2002. “At least 20 percent of the current patients are civilians who didn’t think they were close enough to be exposed.”
Numbers have since soared from the lingering, and unanticipated, effects of mustard gas. Dr. Shahriar Khateri, Iran’s leading expert on chemical weapons victims, now says 70,000 are registered, many from low-dose exposure that is now killing them.
“We now know that the latency period can be 40 years,” says Khateri, who is unsure of his own fate. Khateri volunteered to fight at age 15 after his brother was killed in the war. He was gassed in 1987 during the battle for southern port of Khorramshahr. After the war, he went to medical school and co-founded the Society for Chemical Weapons Victims Support.
Iranian doctors say the final toll of Iraq’s chemical weapons could ultimately rival the 90,000 who died from toxic gases in World War I.
In the meantime, Iran has struggled to tend to victims. Sa’di has had 8 surgeries to transplant or repair both corneas, but still has to hold his watch to his face, and sunlight is painful. He takes multiple medications to help breathe, but has a hacking cough. He does not work — the state gives him disability allowance — although he volunteers as an occasional docent at the Tehran Peace Museum to tell his story.
In Tehran, chemical weapons victims often end up at Sasan Hospital, a grim facility that had been the American Hospital of Tehran before the 1979 revolution. Abolfazl Afazali is one of 22 patients struggling for life at Sasan when I visit in December. “One of my wishes,” he says, “is to be able to take a deep breath.”
U.S. sanctions have complicated treatment, Iranian doctors say. Humanitarian goods are technically exempt, but international banks have often been unwilling to conduct financial transactions with Iran, even when legal, for fear of repercussions.
Ahmad Zangiabadi represented Iranian victims at the 2013 conference of the Organization for the Prohibition of Chemical Weapons, which won the Nobel Peace Prize last year. He is no longer mobile, however. He sleeps sitting upright on the floor of his small apartment because the exertion of lying down and getting up is too much for his lungs. He is kept alive on an Airsep New Life Alert oxygen machine, which pushes oxygen into his lungs and makes a thudding sound with every breath. But he has had increasing trouble getting inhalers made by Spiriva and Glaxo Smith Kline. “Life has become a prison the past four months,” he says.
The lingering impact of a war that ended in a 1988 truce, at a cost of an estimated 1 million Iranian and Iraqi casualties, still defines Iran’s worldview. It has been as important as economic sanctions in pushing Tehran to the negotiating table with the world’s six major powers on its nuclear program. As a result of the war, Iran suffers from “strategic loneliness,” explained Nasser Hadian, a University of Tehran political scientist.
The primary lesson learned, he said, was that Iran had no allies even when it was a victim of weapons banned since World War I by international norms.Tehran felt a sense of isolation and betrayal after the United Nations verified Iraq’s repeated use chemical weapons, but the outside world still almost unanimously sided with Saddam Hussein. Iran’s neighbors aided him. Europeans and Russians sold him arms.
The United States was complicit too. Washington provided Baghdad with intelligence on Iran’s equipment and troops strengths to help Iraq retake the Fao Peninsula in 1988. Iraq made widespread use of chemical weapons to win it back.
The final tally of the war may still not be known for years, Khateri says. “Most of the men exposed to chemical weapons were not registered casualties at the time,” he says. “So almost every day there are new cases — 30 years after the war.”